Biryani is one of the most-cooked, most-discussed dishes in Indian food. Every region has its own version, every household has its own technique, and the arguments about what makes a proper biryani get heated quickly. Koyal's contribution to the discussion sits on the a la carte as the Muntjac Dum Biryani - a dish built around wild British muntjac deer, and one of the most distinctive plates of rice in Surrey.
What is muntjac
Muntjac is a small species of deer that lives wild across southern England, including the woodlands of Surrey itself. The meat is lean, tender, and slightly gamey - somewhere between venison and lamb in flavour. Like all wild game, the texture rewards slow cooking and bold spicing.
Using muntjac in a biryani is unusual. Most UK Indian restaurants stick to chicken, lamb, or vegetarian versions. The decision to use a locally sourced wild meat in a traditionally Indian dish is the kind of thing that earns a kitchen its 2 AA Rosettes - it shows the kitchen is thinking about ingredients beyond the standard supply chain.
The dum technique
The technique is dum - the traditional north Indian method of sealing a pot with dough and cooking everything together in its own steam. The muntjac is marinated overnight in yoghurt, garam masala, ginger, garlic, and saffron. Basmati rice is parboiled with whole spices. The two are layered in a heavy pot, the lid is sealed with a strip of dough, and the pot goes onto a low heat for forty minutes.
When it is opened at the table, the steam carries the smell of saffron, cardamom, and slow-cooked meat across the room.
What it tastes like
Cleaner than a lamb biryani. The muntjac brings depth without the fattiness of mutton, and the saffron and fried onions carry the dish rather than getting overwhelmed. Each grain of rice stays separate, perfumed with spice. The mint raita on the side cuts through any remaining richness.
How to order it
The Muntjac Dum Biryani is on the a la carte at £20 and is a generous portion for one or a shared plate for two. We recommend it alongside one of the slow-cooked mains - the Lamb Shank Nihari or the Bhangjeera Chicken work well. Book a table at Koyal and ask the team to talk you through the dish.
Experience it in Surbiton
Reserve a table at Koyal - 2 AA Rosettes, Brighton Road, Surbiton




